For a long time I thought I was doing everything right. I was shopping at the natural health stores, reading wellness blogs, choosing products with green branding and botanical ingredients on the front. And I still couldn't find a body wash without SLS in it. I went through brand after brand that called itself clean, natural, plant-based — and there it was, sitting in the ingredient list every single time. Sometimes dressed up with a different name. Sometimes hidden behind the word 'coconut-derived' like that changed anything.
It took me years to find products I actually trusted. And the frustrating part is that it shouldn't have been that hard. It's easier now than it was — but it's still not easy enough.
The foam problem
We've been conditioned to associate lather with clean. Big, creamy foam means effective product — it's one of the most successful pieces of marketing in personal care history, and it's completely backwards.
Foam doesn't clean. The surfactant behind the foam does. And SLS — sodium lauryl sulfate is added to products specifically to produce that lather. Not because it cleans better. Because it feels better. Because decades of conditioning have made us distrust a wash that doesn't foam dramatically.
When my dermatitis was at its worst, I was using a cleanser that said 'sensitive skin' on the front. It had SLS on the ingredient list. I didn't connect those two things for longer than I'd like to admit.
What are SLS and SLES?
Sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) is a powerful surfactant, it breaks down oils and helps water rinse away dirt. It can be derived from petroleum or coconut, but the source doesn't change the chemistry. SLS is the same molecule either way.
This is the part the natural beauty industry doesn't want to talk about. 'Coconut-derived SLS' still strips your skin barrier. 'Plant-based' on the front of the bottle means nothing if SLS is in the ingredient list. The marketing has gotten very good at making these distinctions feel meaningful. They aren't.
Sodium laureth sulfate (SLES) is a modified version, created through a process called ethoxylation, which makes it slightly gentler on skin. But ethoxylation introduces a different problem: it can leave behind a contaminant called 1,4-dioxane, a probable human carcinogen according to the US Environmental Protection Agency. It's not listed on the ingredient label because it's a manufacturing byproduct, not an intentional ingredient. You will not find it on the bottle. But it may be in the product.
Why Kura avoids them
- SLS is a known skin irritant — it disrupts the skin barrier, causes protein denaturation, and triggers inflammation, particularly in people with sensitive skin, eczema, or dermatitis
- It penetrates mucous membranes — research has shown links between SLS-containing toothpastes and increased incidence of mouth ulcers
- SLES carries a 1,4-dioxane contamination risk that appears nowhere on the label
- Both are routinely found in products marketed as natural, clean, or plant-based, the coconut origin story is used to justify claims that the chemistry doesn't support
- Baby washes are not exempt — SLS and SLES still appear in children's products, including some that sit on shelves in health food stores.
The name game: every way SLS and SLES appear on an Australian label
This is the part that kept catching me out for years. The ingredient can appear under several names:
- Sodium Lauryl Sulfate
- Sodium Laureth Sulfate
- Sodium Dodecyl Sulfate
- SLS, SLES (abbreviated)
- Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate (ALS) — a close relative with similar irritation concerns
- Ammonium Laureth Sulfate (ALES) — the ethoxylated version, same 1,4-dioxane risk
- Sodium Lauryl Ether Sulfate — another name for SLES
- TEA Lauryl Sulfate — triethanolamine version, same surfactant family
And then there's the one that used to catch me every time: "coconut-derived surfactant" or "plant-based lathering agent" with no INCI name given. That's a marketing description, not an ingredient disclosure. Always scroll to the full INCI list.
Where SLS and SLES hide
- Shampoos and conditioners — one of the most common carriers, including in health food store brands
- Body washes and shower gels — including ones marketed specifically for sensitive skin
- Facial cleansers — even those labelled 'gentle' or 'dermatologist tested'
- Toothpastes
- Hand washes and dish soaps
- Baby washes and baby shampoos — this is where it matters most and where it's still surprisingly common
- Some 'natural' laundry detergents
The 'natural' or 'plant-based' label on the front tells you nothing. I learned that the hard way, repeatedly, over several years of searching.
What to use instead
Gentler surfactants that clean effectively without stripping the skin barrier do exist — they just don't foam as dramatically, which is why mainstream brands don't use them. Look for:
- Coco-glucoside
- Decyl glucoside
- Sodium cocoyl isethionate
- Sodium cocoamphoacetate
- Caprylyl/capryl glucoside
These are derived from plant sugars and amino acids. They clean well. Your skin stays intact. And once you've switched, going back to a foaming SLS wash feels noticeably harsh, your skin will tell you the difference.
It took me a long time to find body washes I actually trusted. The ones in our approved range are the ones that made the final cut after a lot of searching. They're in the Kura-approved bathroom swap guide.
KURA VERDICT: AVOID
SLS strips your skin barrier — including in products that call themselves natural or plant-based. SLES carries a contamination risk that doesn't appear on any label. The foam is not doing you any favours. Check the ingredient list, not the front of the bottle, and don't let 'coconut-derived' on the marketing copy convince you otherwise.
This article is for educational purposes only and does not constitute medical advice. Always consult a qualified health professional before making changes to your health or home care routine.